Pizzeria Libretto opened on Ossington in August 2008. Max Rimaldi and chef Rocco Agostino were among the first in Toronto to serve VPN-certified Neapolitan pizza under the Naples rules: 72-hour dough, 850-degree oven, a blistered cornicione and a soft centre.

The official site still says it plainly: Neapolitan pizza as it should be, simply crafted and chef inspired. The original Ossington room is now Bar Libretto. Other shops followed on the Danforth, University, and Yonge. This note is the Ossington house.

A February pizza night. The oven is the whole argument.