EDO-ko is the Forest Hill Village Japanese room at 425 Spadina Road. The house says it is celebrating twenty-five years in the village, having moved two doors from the original tiny shop at 431. Washoku first, then contemporary plates, a patio in season.

The official welcome still reads like a bow: food is a window on a culture. Reservations by phone or the site. This June line is dinner in the village, not a downtown sushi bar.

The photograph is Spadina Road north of Lonsdale — the block, not a bowl.